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Helsinki: a small city with vintage style and tasty food

Kansalaistori Square in Helsinki city center. (Noah Haynes/YJI)

Helsinki, FINLAND – As I stepped off the plane and felt the rush of cold air between the open door and the terminal, I knew I had landed in Helsinki.

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It was early October, but it was a chilly 7 degrees Celsius – about 44 degrees Fahrenheit – a stark contrast from the 13 degrees I left in Copenhagen.

In the taxi ride from the airport, I could already see that Helsinki is smaller than I imagined. We came off the motorway and within five minutes were at our rental in the center of Helsinki. The city lends itself to easy walkability, and only very rarely did I have to use a tram.

While wandering around the center past many shops, cafés and restaurants, we finally found ourselves at Marimekko, known for its brightly-colored designs and minimalistic approach. In the front of the store, they have their clothing range, which contributed significantly to fashion in the 1960s.

Clothes in the Marimekko store. (Noah Haynes/YJI)

Some of the most iconic pieces that can still be seen today are the Jokapoika shirt, recognized by stripes of colors, such as the red and green colorway.

Further back in the store, they had their homeware collection. It ranges from their most iconic design, Unikko – recognized by a flowery pattern – to more minimalistic approaches, such as Piccolo, recognized by the birch and burgundy colors.

Just across the street from Marimekko, we stopped for dinner at Restaurant Bronda, a contemporary brasserie blending tastes from France, Italy and Spain.

The kitchen offers both à la carte and a five-course tasting menu which plucks many dishes from the à la carte offering.

While looking over the menu, we began with some snacks. The Comté cheese and truffle toast was a disappointment. It lacked any depth of flavor and tasted like two pieces of white bread with Comté cheese with an overpowering truffle aroma.

After the mediocre start, the starter arrived, a crisp-topped pan-seared foie gras, with caramelized endive and apple.

When cutting in, there was a crisp crack of the top with a soft, melty interior from the fattiness. This redeemed the disappointing snacks.

A little while later, the mains arrived, now with much higher expectations than before.

I had a small piece of duck leg confit with white beans and a black sausage and thyme sauce. The duck could barely stay on the bone as my knife cut into it. Each piece had the richness of the sauce and the moistness of the meat. For the money, I think the piece should have been a little bigger.

For around €90 ($104 USD) per person, the portion sizes were a bit on the small size though the depth of flavor and richness left me full.

Another evening, we passed a small shop, “Play It Again, Sam,” selling vintage clothing and accessories from the 1890s to the 1970s. Even though it was closed at 9 p.m., we promised to return the next day.

Inside the store, Play It Again, Sam. (Noah Haynes/YJI)

At the shop the next morning, I was welcomed with a smile from Arja Könönen, an award-winning costume designer, who opened the store in 1957. The store is known as one of the oldest vintage stores in Helsinki, always in the same spot on the corner of Rauhankatu and Meritullinkatu.

Nestled in the back of the store you can find a sprawling men’s section, with everything from suits and top hats to cufflinks. Dotted around are mannequins showing off the pieces.

Near the front, was all the women’s clothing, ranging from frocks to bags and, of course, jewelry. Each piece had a story and was delicately made. One, a bag specifically for going to proms and theater. Just enough space to fit some opera glasses and lipstick, Könönen explained.

Helsinki is a small city, but with a lot to see, do and eat. My advice is be a little careful eating out too much as it can easily add up in Helsinki, with most meals costing at least 35 euro (more than $40 USD) per person.

Noah Haynes is a Correspondent with Youth Journalism International.

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