MEXICO CITY – Colorful. Lively. Joyful. Those are words that you’ll hear when you ask me to describe the last day of the 2024 Youth Journalism International Global Conference.
You probably would not have a hard time believing that it was in Mexico City.
But amidst all the fantastic museums showcasing the city’s incredible historical and artistic culture, the markets encompassing the artisan feel of the place and the delicious food on every corner you turn, is Xochimilco, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
This renowned neighborhood is characterized by its 170 km of canals. The canals come from Mexico City’s only surviving lake from ancient times, as told by Mexican City tour guide Monica Martinez.
Martinez explained how Xochimilco used to be its own city, one that began as an important Indigenous community.
The Aztecs used the canals to transport food, water and goods to each other and the wider city. Nowadays, it is a popular site for both tourists and locals due to the trajinera trips through the canals.
Martinez explained that the trajineras, which are colourfully painted boats, get their name from the Spanish verb ‘trajinar’ meaning ‘to carry goods from one side to another.’
With the trajinera trips a major feature of Xochimilco today, it is clear that the heritage and culture of this special place has been preserved.
“There are usually more Mexicans here than tourists because it is part of their DNA,” Martinez said.
The balance between preserving traditional culture and appealing to tourists appears carefully judged. For me – a Welsh woman with no background knowledge of Mexican culture – it was an educating and enriching experience that was also a lot of fun.
We took a two hour trajinar ride through the canals, taking in the festive atmosphere while also learning about the myths and legends of the Xochimilco neighborhood.
The canal was packed with countless boats of groups from those enjoying a Sunday afternoon with family, people taking advantage of photoshoot opportunities at large birthday parties and even engagement/wedding celebrations.
The trajinar trips alone filled most of the waterway, but there was still room for traders and sellers to make their way down the canals. Whether you wanted a cold beverage, a yummy taste of Mexico or a souvenir to take home, you would need to look no further than what, at times, represented a floating market.
There were also boats carrying various musicians such as mariachi and brass bands, singers, comedians and xylophone players. While some may have found the busyness overwhelming, I felt it gave the experience a real party vibe.
Lying on the deck of the boat, listening to the buzz of distant music, laughter and chatter while taking in all the color and waving to the traders floating by was everything I thought Mexico City would be.
It was made better by being able to learn more about the history and culture of the place. One story that stood out to me was the ‘Isla de las Munecas.’ Floating through the canals, we saw many dolls hung up on trees or sat up against rocks on the banks of the water.
Martinez explained that the reason for the dolls goes back to a fisherman from the mid-20th century. The fisherman, who lived in one of the houses along the canal, used to fish and bring his catches to the market.
As he aged, he developed a drinking problem and began to lose his mind. He started to believe that there was a mermaid calling him from the canals so every time he went to the market, he would pick up a doll.
He put the dolls around his house to protect him against the mermaid. Eventually, he died by following the voice into the canal and drowning.
It is a sad tale, but seeing the countless dolls left as tributes reminds us of Xochimilco’s long history.
It was a privilege to learn some of the stories of the place while enjoying the good energy it had to offer. The mix of color, music and history made the experience of a Xochimilco trajinar trip a highlight of my visit to Mexico City.
Holly Hostettler-Davies is an Associate Editor with Youth Journalism International from Wales, UK. She wrote this article and contributed photos and video.
Anya Farooqui is a Reporter with Youth Journalism International from Karachi, Pakistan. She contributed the cover photo and video to this article.
Cassiane Saraiva is a Reporter with Youth Journalism International from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. She contributed a photo to this article.
Damian Nam is a Reporter with Youth Journalism International from Seoul, South Korea. He contributed video to this article.
